Posts Tagged ‘Biological Filtration’

Refugiums, Plenum & Berlin Systems: Filtration Options With Fancy Names Explained

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

Hey fellow Saltwater Aquarium fans,

Basically as im sure you have realised you almost need a dictionary and a marine biology text book to cope with all the terms and jargon in this hobby! I actually find this pretty cool as I love to confuse my wife and friends ;)

Today im going to introduce to you a couple of unique aquarium filtration options you may or may not of heard of and explain what they are and what they do.

1. The Plenum: Sounds weird but can actually be amazingly helpful for an aquarium. A Plenum system is a type of Biological filter that uses a deep bed of live sand (micro and macro organism packed sand from the sea) suspended an inch or so off the aquarium bottom as the biological filter that contains both aerobic (removes ammonia and nitrite) and anaerobic (removes nitrates) areas in its depth which is traditionally about 5 inches.

The Plenum system (also known as a Deep Sand Bed or “DSB” filter) was developed by a very smart Dr Jaubert (and so is also known as the Jaubert system, argh so many names for this one thing!!!!) for keeping his reef aquarium healthy. The plenum itself is the oxygen free lower level of sand/gravel suspended by a plastic grid on supports above the aquarium base so that warm water (generated from the anaerobic conversion of nitrates into nitrogen gas) can drift up through the filter and removes any harmful hydrogen sulphide build up in the sand bed.

The surface of the plenum system will be packed with sand stirring filter feeders aerating and cleaning the top layers of Live Sand that contain the aerobic bacteria, sand sifting Gobies and Wrasses add to this effect.

When a Plenum filter is used in conjunction with a protein skimmer it is a very effective bio filter especially because of its nitrate reduction. It works best when the reef is suspended above the plenum using glue or epoxy resin for maximum water flow and so filtration. A possible downside is a buildup of harmful hydrogen sulphide if there isnt sufficient water movement upwards or sand sifting at the top.

2. The Refugium: A place to harbour refugees under your aquarium! No really it is; a ‘fuge is a tank  separate from the main aquarium with (usually) shared filtration and its own lighting either beside (hang on style) or beneath the display tank (like a sump) to put delicate, sensitive species so they can be free of predation at the hands (or fins) of fish, that would occur if they were in the display tank. In fact the refugium has many possible uses:

  1. A quarantine tank for new arrivals.
  2. A treatment tank for medications (treatment has to be safe for the main tank or have seperate filtration though).
  3. A quiet place for the bullied or bullies (naughty corner!) to go.
  4. A system to raise shrimp (algae, amphipods, copepods) to feed the display tank or just as additional pets.
  5. A place to keep live sand, grow some plants to help with water quality.
  6. A place to add gear without messing with the display tank.

As well as having all these possible uses the refugium increases the total water volume which is good for making the water stable, increasing buffering capacity and dilution of nasties in the water, obviously the bigger volume of your refugium the better.


3. Berlin system: If you are thinking this has got something to do with German saltwater tanks you are right! Some clever Germans in Berlin came up with a new take on filtration also known as the “natural system” that is based around the use of large amounts of live rock as your biological filter. The Berlin system remains the filtration system of choice for reef aquarium purists as it is very natural, after all Live Rock is the biological filter of the worlds coral reefs.

The Berlin system uses Live Rock as the aquarium’s biological filter as it is packed with beneficial bacteria that will convert ammonia into nitrite, then nitrite into nitrate and even has oxygen free zones (anaerobic) within it containing  bacteria which convert nitrate into harmless nitrogen gas. This is the Berlin systems natural nitrate reduction (NNR) system.

Along with the Live Rock (housed in the aquarium itself or in the sump) there is a big ol protein skimmer which aids filtration by removing much of the marine life’s waste and uneaten food at the source before its converted into ammonia making the bacteria’s job easier. There is also no substrate, to help the protein skimmer suck out all the detritus unhindered.  And thats about it, very simple, natural and highly effective. I have run a system like this before and it ran like a dream!

The advantages of a system like this is the fact that it looks appealing and is letting nature do its job, its also relatively simple, cheap to set up and looks really good (I absolutely love Live Rock!). The only real downside is the bioload a system like this can sustain; you can only put so much livestock in for the amount of Live rock you have because there is only limited surface area for the bacteria to grow to deal with this waste.

I hope this article helped to shed some light on some different biological filtration options available to the saltwater hobbyist.

Your marine aquarium maestro.

For excellent saltwater aquarium advice and salt water aquarium products check out www.SaltwaterAquariumAdvice.com or click “home” on the menu bar.
Saltwater Aquarium Advice

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How You Can Avoid A Common Fatal Mistake…

Monday, July 26th, 2010

New Tank Syndrome: This is quite simply the most frequently seen mistake in the saltwater aquarium keeping universe; in the form of dead or dying fish that (mostly) beginners to the hobby make. The root cause behind New Tank Syndrome (NTS) is a lack of patience: wanting to see those pretty fish swimming around well before the aquarium water has chemically “cycled” to a point where the beneficial bacterial populations can cope with converting this  fish induced ammonium waste to the less harmful nitrite (courtesy of Nitrosomonas bacteria) which is then converted to the much less harmful nitrate (courtesy of Nitrobacter bacteria).

This NTS will manifest itself as very stressed ammonium/nitrite toxified fish gasping at the surface, red colouring around the gills, diseases appearing due to stress or fish may even die with no symptoms. At this time many newbies give up in distress and leave this amazing hobby, if only they had read this article first…

This nitrogen cycling or “break in” process takes time (for more detailed information see my article “The Nitrogen Cycle And Saltwater Aquariums” in the resources section of www.SaltwaterAquariumAdvice.com), typically  with NTS too many fish tend to get put into the aquarium way before the bacteria are present in sufficient numbers to cope with their waste products, this mistake can occur from any time after the initiation of the nitrogen cycle with an ammonium source (use a commercial product and follow the instructions) to the cycling process being almost, but not quite complete. Cycling can take anyway from 3 to 100 days depending on what sort of filter (seeded or unseeded) you are using and whether or not you have live rock/sand. The key to not making this expensive mistake is regular ammonium,nitrite and nitrate testing using good test kits to see which phase the cycling is in before you add your first fish (I say first because using living fish to initiate the cycling process is cruel). You will want to see zeros levels of ammonium and nitrite (which you should have noticed have spiked and then come down over time) coupled with increasing levels of nitrate; which can be gotten rid of with regular partial water changes before the first fish goes in.

When it comes to adding fish once again patience, add one or two small hardy fish first, then wait a few weeks while the bacteria adjust to the increased fish waste bioload before adding more.

If you are reading this too late in a panic because all your fish are dying, it may not be irreversible. You can potentially save your fish by conducting a series of water changes (same temp, specific gravity pH) etc or moving your fish to a quarantine tank. You can also use products like Amquell to reduce ammonium levels and try adding some activated carbon to the system. Your fish if you can save them will be very stressed with weakened immune systems, adding some methylene blue to the water can help avoid infection.

New Tank Syndrome does not just happen to gung ho newbies you know. If you damage the bacterial population in your not-so-new aquarium by physically removing or chemically treating (many medications and antibiotics will kill beneficial bacteria) you will have exactly the same problem. This also goes for severe shock caused by massive temperature fluctuations and the use of chlorinated water.

So the moral of this story is to not be one of the uneducated masses that pour into and out of this hobby; be mindful of your bacterial helpers, test regularly during the cycling process and most importantly move SLOWLY!

Happy marine aquarium keeping,

Marine Aquarium Maestro
Saltwater Aquarium Advice

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Why Live Rock and Live Sand Are So Important For Your Saltwater Aquarium

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

The important role of live rock and sand in a marine aquarium is something that most beginner aquarists really dont understand

So here it is for you guys in black and white!

Writing all the content for my ebook “Ultimate Secrets To Saltwater Fish and Invertebrates” on www.Saltwater-Aquarium-Advice.com has really opened my eyes to the true importance of live rock and sand. Basically for you to recreate a small slice of the ocean in your home, you need a myriad of micro-organisms that are a crucial to the ocean eco-system. This is the reason why early saltwater aquariums (like in the 60’s or something!) ended up having all the marine life dying; especially corals, which people began thinking could simply not survive in captivity.

And right there is where live rock and sand (basically sand with micro-organisms and invertebrates living in it, can be used with live rock as well) come in, you see live rock is taken from rubble zones of ocean reefs it is very porous and in these pores live micro-organisms and tiny invertebrates that break down the waste products created by the life-cycles in the ocean. So essentially to breakdown the waste products in your aquarium it only makes sense that you require the assistance of such organisms. So live rock and sand is fundamentally the biological filtration agent of the oceans (and your aquarium). Additional to biological filtration live rock also gives your marine life a place to hide and looks natural and appealing in an aquarium.

Before you go hurling chunks of live rock and handfuls of sand into your aquarium, this stuff needs to be cured before it comes into contact with your marine life (or else the decomposition can harm your marine life and throw out your water quality by adding ammonia and debris). Curing initiates the nitrogen cycle and takes about 5 weeks to do it properly, you want to initiate the nitrogen cycle so the micro-organisms break down the waste products of your marine life which if left unchecked will build up to toxic levels. During this process you will want to change the water about once a week, replacing 25% at a time. A good rule of thumb is to use 1.5 pounds of rock for every gallon of water. Remember to check with the seller of the live rock to see whether the curing has already been done, if you have to do it yourself it may seem like a

lot of effort but it is well worth it. Your marine aquarium will be a much more healthy and efficient eco-system which a lot less toxic nitrates in the water.

For more information on live rock and sand, check out “Ultimate Secrets To Saltwater Fish and Invertebrates” available from www.Saltwater-Aquarium-Advice.com